Leica R6.2 – for many, this is the epitome of the Leica R series. It has a fast flash sync, but the best thing about it is all the Zeiss lenses available. My father had one till it was pinched and still misses it to this day. There are many great FD lenses and as they don’t adapt easily onto most onto DSLRs, they are good value.Ĭontax S2b – a basic, but high quality camera with 1/250s fast flash sync.
It was designed to take on and outdo the dominant cameras of the day, such as the Nikon F3. I find them impossible to rank, so I’ll list them alphabetically.Ĭanon New F1 – this is the best mechanical SLR in FD mount, with an AE finder. Among this sub-genre, there are some stand-outs.
CAMERA RETRO TOP VIEW FINDER MANUAL
So unless I have specific reason to want to carry a camera of this type, I’ll always reach for a manual focus and manual advance camera. However, they’re big and bulky, they draw attention and their specialist purpose borders on the domain of a DSLR. I do own and enjoy more modern auto-focusing and motor driven bodies, such as a Canon EOS1V and Nikon F100. – TTL flash – this is the last consideration as I rarely use flash, but it can help me decide between two closely matched camera bodies – Robust – great build quality, reliability and good finish aren’t just pleasing, they give confidence. – Metered manual – I want the control of manual exposure settings, but I also want metering while I do it.
– Meter (preferably aperture priority AE) – it’s not strictly necessary, but I work faster when I’m not constantly guessing light levels. Manual wind is also much more subtle for candid photography. I’d like to fill my roll with keepers, not burn through a pocketful. – Manual film advance – film is cheap but it isn’t free. – Judicious info in finder – I’d like to know key info, but not at the expense of clutter and visual obstruction. – Easy to focus – a finder with good magnification and coverage and eye relief also needs good focussing aids, like split prism, microprisms and a high precision matte for depth of fields. – Big bright finder – I don’t want to squint down a little tube with my eyeball pressed to the finder, wondering if the image is in focus. With digital, I can catch my mistakes, but with film I cannot. – Manual focus – I am faster with AF, but more consistent with MF. I don’t want to intimidate my subject … or put a chiropractor’s kids through college.
CAMERA RETRO TOP VIEW FINDER PLUS
– Small body – plus availability of compact lenses. However, it doesn’t hurt if the lenses can be easily fitted to a FF DSLR body. – Film – for my personal photography, film is my passion. – Great lenses – there are plenty of great bodies, but the selection of available lenses (and to a lesser extent, the rest of the system accessories) should be your first consideration in choosing a body, not the features of the body itself. I want a small light camera that is quick and intuitive to use, subtle in terms of presence and sound, fast to set up for a shot and delivers good photos reliably under all conditions. Therefore, I’m not too worried about how my camera will deliver 6 frames per second, or interface with multiple Speedlights or studio strobes. It helps for readers to know that I am an amateur photographer shooting street and general photography.
Photographers rarely agree on matters such as this, because they have very different preferences and work in different ways. I started out compiling a definitive list of the top 10 film SLRs of all time and quickly realised it would be good for nothing but a protracted flame-war. If you are new to film and looking for an SLR guide, this would be a great start. Come and read, maybe you will learn something new, maybe you will have something to share. Dan K is back, with a great rundown of the top 10 manual film SLRs.
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